Kaitlin Owens

Share this post

Can Good Fashion Be Regional?

www.magdilettante.com

Can Good Fashion Be Regional?

A Review of Richmond Fashion Week

kaitlin owens
Oct 13, 2022
2
Share this post

Can Good Fashion Be Regional?

www.magdilettante.com

This past weekend, I sat in the press pit of Richmond Fashion Week’s final runway show.

This was my first time attending their event and although I am no stranger to fashion shows, I was struck by the experience.

Thanks for reading Dilettante.! Subscribe for free to receive new posts and support my work.

It was all very well produced. Situated in the Rhythm Hall of the Dominion Energy Center, the space was large enough to fit the event, but small enough to make the standing room tickets feel desirable.

Press was stationed on a four-foot-long, raised stage at the front of the room. Space was a premium– so, after arriving at 3:30 to pick up my pass, we waited in position until the show started a little after 6:00PM.

I wore metallic, point-toe kitten heels and a longline bullet bra– not the most ideal outfit for two and a half hour long cramped standing– but fortunately time went by quickly as I talked to the rest of the press pit.

Everyone was very friendly– one photographer in particular was incredibly helpful in giving me the rundown of “Who’s Who” in the Richmond fashion scene. As the Rhythm Hall filled with coordinators and volunteers, he pointed out each new face like a young, eager Political Aide in the ear of an aging (and mentally declining) State Senator.

A Bleach-blonde woman with a “Director” tag, body like a pinup model and lips the perfect shade of Juvederm pink. “Heather Marie Speaks– the face of Richmond Fashion Week.”

A handsome man with grey hair in a beautifully tailored suit– “that’s Stephen Adkins. He is a part of the Silver Foxes.”

(Some later research at home revealed the Silver Fox Squad to be a group of dapperly dressed men of a certain age who organize classy events. It seems, at least according to their website, that their primary aim is to inspire other men to be fashionable and care about their appearance. Adkins himself serves on the board of directors for Richmond Fashion Week) 

Finally, a thin, wiry man with an impressively waxed mustache and flat-brim newsboy cap. My new friend pointed him out with great reverence: “That is Michael Hostetler– he is an incredible photographer”.

There seemed to be some heavy hitters in the room– some real Old Money types. A couple men with thinning hair combed back in a frail attempt at a “Yacht-Rock Shag”, their Tory Burch-laden wives and skinny, awkward tween daughters. I tried to imagine their motivations behind attendance. They didn’t strike me as the usual milieu of boisterous dressers, loud personalities or the fashion-obsessed who typically attend shows like these. Maybe they’re fostering their young daughter’s burgeoning interest in fashion, maybe the wife is a member of the board or owns a boutique. Maybe he’s a buyer for a mid-size Belk franchise. 

It was strange to see how similarly fashion at a regional scale operates to their larger, metropolitan counterparts. I had previously held this fantasy that regional fashion was “truly about the art”. That you could go to a place like Richmond, Virginia and see craftsmanship in its purest form (undiluted by consumerism and the need to “appeal to a broad base”).

But truthfully, fashion is, at its core, a commercial game. The shows, the spectacles, the glamor— it’s all an advertisement to sell a $1,000 custom dress (or better yet a whole rack of them to a large retailer).

And the primary reason that places like Richmond, Virginia don’t typically have fashion weeks at the same caliber of cities like New York and Paris is that they don’t have the same buying power. Mid-size cities don’t have Net-a-Porter or Bergdorf’s buyers to purchase half a million dollars in silk chemises.

Now, because of this, the artists who are making the truly thoughtful, well-executed and refined garments will flock to major cities. They want to actually make money off of their designs– and that’s where the money’s at. As a result, you will often hear the phrases “debut collection” and “first solo show” before a regional runway presentation.

But Richmond is growing– and it’s growing fast.

According to the Greater Richmond Partnership’s website, “The Richmond MSA added 8,323 net new residents(...), Richmond's increase ranked the 16th highest annual growth rate across the nation.”

A source at Apartments.com has also reported that they project to introduce over 10,000 new-build luxury apartments to the greater Richmond area in the next 5 years. This is seemingly to accommodate for the influx of residents from big-ticket cities like New York and LA.

A lot of new money is coming into the area. If utilized smartly, this buying power could be used to propel the success of local designers and artists. This could also situate Richmond as a major player in the American creative scene.

Richmond has the talent. VCU’s graduate arts program is ranked #4 in the country. There is no shortage of creative weirdos in the greater Richmond area– we just need a professional scene to foster them and funding to support them.

Events like Richmond Fashion Week fulfill a vital niche in the community. This final runway show was the culmination of five days of events sponsored by RVAFW. The first couple nights were networking events and panel talks. Then there was “Sneakerfest”-- a hypebeast-centric presentation of streetwear that also included a small runway show. There was also a strangely included “wellness day” that featured panel talks and “self care” activities.

It’s my opinion that Richmond Fashion Week should be an actual week full of shows– instead of one, large, three-hour fashion show at the end of the week.

Having all these designers show back-to-back-to-back made the show feel like a college senior showcase. Maintaining interest in hours worth of numerous brief showings that mechanically operated exactly the same was a bit of a challenge.

Certain designers did stand out– Museum Rejects was one of my favorites. Their branding felt elevated and their garments referenced both deconstruction and grungier, sexier takes on traditional menswear which, I felt, contributed to the larger conversation going on right now in Fashion.

Paige the Artist x BlueCatHouse also had a strong collection. Their garments were Prince inspired and showcased very feminine and over-the-top men’s looks– but they still managed to be very wearable and believable for the Richmond market. However, their collection would have been stronger if presented in a more atmospheric environment. I believe it is worth considering next year to rent out a smaller venue space– say a cool bar or interesting art gallery (which Richmond has no shortage of) and hosting a memorable, fantasy-fueled event.

I would be much more willing, as a private consumer, to commission a custom piece from the designer that I see worn on a sexy, cool model in an intimate showcase than I would be to remember the one, kind of cool piece, out of a hundred that walked under harsh overhead lighting.

There needs to be more fantasy. More focus on the fantastical element of VIEWING fashion. There needs to be spectacle. If our goal is to sell clothes, make money and forge a path for ourselves in the wider world of fashion, we need to make a good advertisement for it.

For the first time in recent history, regional fashion has the opportunity to become a major player in the scene. If RVAFW wants to participate in this future, we need less panel talks, less “self care” seminars and more actual fashion.

Thanks for reading Dilettante.! Subscribe for free to receive new posts and support my work.

Share this post

Can Good Fashion Be Regional?

www.magdilettante.com
Comments
TopNew

No posts

Ready for more?

© 2023 Dilettante.
Privacy ∙ Terms ∙ Collection notice
Start WritingGet the app
Substack is the home for great writing